CRUISING NOTES FOR THE NORTHERN TERRITORY     By John & Rosemary Jilderts, "Sokari"   

These comments are based on our observations as at May, 2001 and are to be treated as a guide only.  Sandbars, in particular, often change and each skipper must make his/her own judgement.   There are two cruising guides for the Northern Territory that we know of. Perhaps there are others however, we find that Kevin Lane's "Cruising West" and John Knight's "Northern Territory Coast" are adequate to guide us safely across this coastline. Always assuming, of course, that we use our own judgement and eyes and not rely too heavily upon someone else's perceptions. Because, of course, that's what mud maps are - the artist's "perception". So, no matter who gives you a mud map take that into account. Remember that of course with our mud maps, too! It will only be OUR perception.

Always assume that every point and headland will extend a long way out under water even though some of them don't. Many of the bays and beaches are rock fringed, so go carefully.

Kevin Lane's book covers a large portion of the Australian coastline and he does quite a few good mud maps. There are a lot of places, of course, that he doesn't cover but you can get across the top on what he does show. John Knight, being an ex-navigation teacher, goes into much more detail on the navigation side of things, how to work out the tides and currents etc. and gives detailed information on accessing many areas as well as a history of the area, and an explanation of the Aboriginal lands. However, his book does not give mud maps of a lot of the anchorages that cruising yachts want. John's book is excellent.  By using the two books you should be able to have a good balance.

We have already mentioned elsewhere that to cross the Gulf of Carpentaria we find it best, on advice from old fishermen and locals, to begin the crossing from down the Cape towards Weipa. We find the Pennefather River to be a good start-off point. This puts the prevailing weather on your rear quarter and the seas do not seem to be so much like a washing machine as you can find further north. This happens when the Coral and Arafura Seas meet about 100 miles west of Thursday Island.

We have also been advised by other yachties who have done the crossing many times that it is best to wait until the sea on the western side is 1.4 metres. Kevin Lane also suggests that it shouldn't be done during Spring Tides. However, sometimes, with the time constraints we all have ,it isn't always possible to follow all these suggestions.

The passage between Bremer Island and the mainland is quite navigable for keel boats as well as multihulls but be aware that there is reef.  Just keep a good lookout.. Once in the harbour, you can stay reasonably close to the jetties and follow the port markers around the corner to Wanaka Bay. You will find that Gove Yacht Club is a very friendly place. Everyone is pleasant and makes you feel right at home. Never have we been made to feel out of place as outsiders. There is a careening grid on the beach, which you should ask permission to use. A tap is on the grid, but there are also others close to the beach. Multis can beach nearby so that hoses can be run down to fill your tanks. Make sure that you don't leave you dinghy on the beach in front of the club near the boat ramp - there is a sign requesting this - as this area must be kept clear for the rigging of boats. Showers and washing machines are available by paying a key deposit, refundable on leaving. Hitching a lift into town is never a problem. Walk left from the Club towards the main road. Don't bother walking along the main road. If you don't get a lift between the club and the main road you will get one by just waiting near the junction.

Your next decision will be which route you will take towards Darwin. You have the option of day-hopping along the coast or going through Hole-in-the Wall and running out wide. Generally, boats that do this, run for a day and a bit to the Goulburn Islands where they anchor for a sleep. The Wessel Islands are spectacular and the fishing is superb. It is worth allowing sufficient time to explore this beautiful area.
However, remember that this is aboriginal land and we are the visitors. 

If you have the time, coastal-hopping is interesting. But we would recommend taking the time to do just short hops. The shallow areas and rocky terrain can leave the nerves a bit shredded when doing full days, as we have found. However, if we had the time we'd only run for half a day, or less, where possible. Spend some time fishing and sightseeing. That way the area can be appreciated to it's fullest.

Galiwinku, the community on the bottom of Elcho Island, is a friendly place. We have heard that there is a very good arts and craft place there, but haven't seen it ourselves. Unfortunately, to go to all these places we are expected to have permits but they take so long to organise that it's not really feasible for those of us whose time of arrival is not always predictable.

The Crocodile Islands are apparently out of position by about 1 nm. on the chart and after plotting out way through on the computer we would agree with that . It isn't difficult to plot your way through underneath the islands.

We found a very shallow spot coming into Cape Stewart on one trip. We obviously took a different course the previous time as we anchored in 16 feet of water inside the bay however, we got quite a fright this time and reversed out very quickly and continued on, around the next set of reefs, and back into the next bay, Boucaut Bay. We plotted our way around the reef on the digital charts. Mind you we still use the paper charts and plot on them as well but we are interested to see just how accurate or inaccurate the charting is. This only really shows up on the digital charts. In this instance, by eyeballing the easily seen reef as we went around we were pleased to see that it appeared to be quite accurate. We anchored a long way out in 16 ft. of water. The anchorage was quite calm.

Guion Point is a good anchorage. The bay is a lot bigger than you would expect from the mud map in Kevin Lane's book, "Cruising West". The rocks that he shows north of Guion Point are quite noticeable. They extend out probably half a mile from the point. The reef off the point is quite extensive so give it a wide berth. The face of the point, is sandy beach with large mangroves on each end of the face and smaller ones behind the beach. It appears to be deeper halfway into the bay, although we always anchor just inside the point. The above water rocks that Kevin shows are 1= miles from the anchorage. There is a reasonably sized river in the corner of the bay. This anchorage is very comfortable.

The next obvious stop is the Goulburn Islands. Remember that North Goulburn is a very sensitive area, sacred to the locals, so it's best to stay away. Show respect for their customs. South Goulburn, while still off-limits unless you have a permit, is a lovely quiet spot to stop. We find it best to leave them their special areas - we have plenty of spots where we can go ashore in other parts of the country. However, a dinghy did come up and ask if we had gone ashore. When we said "No" they explained that the shop is closed on Saturdays and Sundays, so obviously they are quite happy for people to go ashore. It's hard to know what is the best thing to do without a permit but we play it safe.

South West Bay on South Goulburn Island is a very comfortable anchorage. Macquarie Strait, in between mainland and South Goulburn, is deep and easily navigable. At the western end of the strait the sandy point on the island is conspicuous as you approach, keep your distance off the point, of course, where the depths are still about 30 - 70 ft. There is a small shallow patch (around 12 feet) off the first beach but just stay a bit wider. It doesn't appear to get below that there. Red and white cliffs mark the beginning of South West Bay. They are quite spectacular. As you round them, once again keeping a safe distance off, you will see tanks, lights and a shed near a barge ramp. Steam in carefully towards the fringing coral reef. We anchor in 16 ft. of water but watch the tidal range whenever you anchor anywhere in the Territory.

Malay Bay appears to give a lot of protection but there is a lot of fetch even for multis that can go in closer. There always seems to be a bit of chop but we didn't find it uncomfortable. Many yachts anchor off the first beach for a quick getaway the next morning, however, we like to go crabbing here so we go in as close as we possibly can towards the creek. We stay to the left of the creek entrance but a long way off still. We take the dinghy in towards another small creek to the left of the big one and if the water is clear John hops out of the dinghy into the shallows (keeping the dinghy nearby though) and catches mud crabs with a scoop net.

The trip to Palm Bay on Croker Island is only a short hop and we go inside the Strait where there are a few sandy spots near the entrance to negotiate but we haven't found them to be dangerously shallow even for keel boats. The western end of the strait - Adjamarugu Point - has extensive reef off it but it is above water and can be negotiated quite easily. As a test, we plotted on the computer again and found that Croker Island is also out of position - being north of the position shown. The plotter actually had us on the opposite side of the reef, i.e inside the bay! There are shoals running off the end of this reef, almost parallel to the beach and they extend for some distance, however, we found the shallowest to be around 9 ft. By staying further west for a greater distance you can come into the bay from a more northerly position. We, however, cut across the shoals and enter the bay which then becomes quite deep again, anchoring a long way off shore once the depths have come back to a good depth e.g. 15 ft. We anchor to the right of a red cliff on shore. Watch out for rocks in close but you won't go in that far. When leaving the bay we head directly to our next waypoint and don't come near the shoals.

We go from Croker Is. directly to Alcaro Bay, at Cape Don. To do the next run you need to work out the tides and they do take a bit of working out at times but John Knight gives a very comprehensive set of diagrams in his book so that it can be worked out with a high degree of accuracy.

You need to leave Cape Don four to 4+ hours BEFORE the high tide in Darwin. You need to leave Cape Hotham or be at the Vernon Islands at roughly 4 hours AFTER high tide in Darwin. If this means a nighttime run, Alcaro Bay is a very pretty stopover but be very careful of the reef. We use Alcaro because it seems to have the easiest exit. Drop in a waypoint outside the bay before entering it and use the reciprocal course that John Knight recommends when leaving the bay in the dark. However, the reef inside the bay is clearly visible in daylight when you approach. You must head straight out into the channel for about 6 miles (we only go 4) before heading southwards. Watch the current which can run very fast through there but it isn't as difficult as it may sound. John steered 400 above the course to make the waypoint as we had a strong current already running south. The last time we were in Alcaro Bay, a fishing camp had been set up nearby and the management didn't seem very impressed that we were there.  But remember, they have no right to refuse you entry.

If you get your timing right you can negate the stopover at Cape Hotham and run straight into Darwin. We have stopped at Cape Hotham once and we found that we had to run down the coast quite a few miles before we could find a reasonable spot to anchor. The shoreline is very rocky however, it is quite comfortable.

Keep an eye out for the reefs around the Vernons, whether you take the northern route above them, or through the channels between.
There can often be smoke haze in the area, which can cut down your visibility at times.

The anchorage in Fannie Bay is low grade and anchorage is usually a long way off shore. A lot of boats creep in during the neaps and move back out when the tidal range increases. The Darwin Sailing Club is very friendly. There are usually trolleys that you can borrow from the top of the beach to use to bring your dinghy up at low tide. Just return it to where you found it once you have used it.  There is a washing machine, dryer and iron in the laundry/locker room. Showers and toilets, of course. And the meals are great. If you like steaks, take my word for it they just about melt in your mouth.

There is plenty to see in and around Darwin so enjoy your stay here.